Fitout Day 5

We hadn’t planned on spending this weekend on Willow. James had a committee meeting on Saturday, and Amy was racing in the Women’s Eights Head of the River Race in London, the biggest race for women in the UK, held on the same stretch of river as the Boat Race.

However, with the news that my committee meeting was postponed, I bought tickets and headed up to Willow on Friday night after work, arriving at half past eight. Amy stayed on Lucky Duck, so as to race in London.

Annoyingly, one of the sights that greeted me was that several of the wooden blocks I had glued under the gunwales had fallen off. They were all along one side, and on closer inspection, every single block along the right hand side of the boat was not stuck properly. These had been glued on with “No Nonsense” adhesive from Screwfix, but it turned out to be anything but. Those on the left hand side of the boat, glued on with Evo Stik, were rock solid. I resigned myself to heading off to get some more glue to reglue them up on Saturday morning.

Before going to bed, I sanded the plywood board that was going to become the electrical distribution board, and painted it grey, having removed all the bus bars, fuse holders, and other gubbins I had temporarily attached and wired up to check the fit. It’s was left to dry overnight.

I was up early on Saturday morning, which I’m counting as the fifth full day of the fitout. I headed over to Travis Perkins and B&Q to peruse the adhesives on offer, to no joy. The main problem is that normal construction adhesives aren’t flexible, and the vibration of the boat’s engine had caused several of the blocks to fall. I was looking for a more polyurethane based adhesive, but had no joy. I did manage to get some cable clips, though, to secure the cables that will cross the ceiling from under the right hand gunwale over to the kitchen.

I’ve decided to keep the wiring along under the right hand gunwale, and the plumbing under the left hand gunwale. I’m going to have to cross over the ceiling to the other side two or maybe three times, but that’s easy to conceal, as I can run the cables along the side of the wooden beams that used to support the roof, and then cover them with the oak faced ply panelling.

Having had no luck locally, I hopped on the bus- having had a half hour wait- to Ikea and Screwfix. I managed to fight my way through the hoards of people in the Swedish furniture emporium, and managed to come out again without buying anything- twice in a row, now, that must be a record! When we rethought where the kitchen would go, we had a go on the Ikea online planner to design a new kitchen to fit the new space, and I wanted to talk over this design with the designers in the store to make sure I hadn’t forgotten anything. I’m glad I did, and it’ll probably save time later, because there were a few snags to be worked out, like forgetting to choose an end panel, or finding out that the work top was 28mm thick, and the sink- which has overhangs to support itself on the work top- is designed to work with a 38mm work top. Not to worry, though, I’ll cut some 10mm thick battens to support the edges of the sink.

Once at Screwfix, I had a bit of a spree, buying a professional quality expanding foam gun, can of expanding foam, and various other bits and pieces, including some tubes of Sika MaxTack adhesive. I’d’ve preferred to get SikaFlex or MarineFlex, because I know they work, but so far nothing has fallen off again… This adhesive is more flexible than the No Nonsense stuff, a d hopefully ill do the trick.

Once back on the boat, I had the fun task of cleaning off the surfaces of the blocks and the underside of the gunwales so that the new adhesive could stick properly. I took the opportunity, whilst the blocks were on the floor, of screwing on the attachment points for the cable ties, a d putting a looped cable tie on each block. I’ve put two screw on cable tie mounts onto each block, a d there’s space for more if needed, for areas with lots of cables.

Once the blocks were stuck on, I reattached all the pieces to the electrical distribution board, and stuck it up in the engine room, propped up against the engine with the short cabin shaft so that it is supported whilst the adhesive dries. I managed to run one cable the length of the boat for the water pump through all the loops, but its a bit of a job on your own, so I’ll wait until Amy joins me tomorrow to do more.

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Categories: Fitout, Uncategorized | 3 Comments

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3 thoughts on “Fitout Day 5

  1. Fatboyfinn

    James,

    Andy speaking, I have had a lot of success with VHB tape – ( very High Bond ) this is double sided
    foam or gel tape made by 3Ms. It is used in all kinds of situations from Architecture to fitting car
    panels – I’ve used it to glue my windows in Diva. I haven’t tried to remove then but I’m led to believe
    that it would be a hammer and chisel job. — http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?N=5485815&rt=c3

    Any way good luck with it

    Andy – you know, Amy’s Dad.

  2. Chris Woodward

    Not much help now but in future an adhesive called CT1 is one of the best building materials around followed by the Soudal range , these are not cheap but they work ,some of them can even be used under water.
    Not trying to promote any particular firm but more info can be be found at Heward and Dean website

    • CT1 is the the way forward, alright!

      4mm rubber sheet glued to the underside of wb Pippin’s treadplate engine deck is still as stuck as a stuck thing, after at least two years of goodness know’s what in terms of vibration and extremes of humidity and temperature.

      Best part is, they sell it at Mackay’s in Cambridge!

      Not cheap, but truly the adhesive of heaven….!

      🙂

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